Category: Northern Territory

12. Great Life lapping Australia 2024

Leaving Darwin

I try to have something to talk about when setting up my weekly posts. The problem with last week was there was nothing to talk about that hadn’t been mentioned before. I’m sure you were happy to find something else to be interested in after the exciting Paris Olympics closing ceremony (we didn’t watch either the opening or closing ceremonies).

How good is this? We washed the outside of the motor home and the Suzuki before departing Lee Point for Katherine and West Australia. The inside of the motor home looked like it was ready to sell. Lee Point has been a good place to stay with our own en suite and an almost constant sea breeze throughout the day and night, making it pleasant in the Darwin climate at this time of year.

Driving in Australia can be very hot. We expect our journey in the next week or two to take us through temperatures in the low to mid 40 Degrees Celsius. With that in mind, our driving needs to start soon after sunrise and be done by mid-day. Once we turn right at Katherine, the traffic becomes sparse as we venture and find our first camp spot beside the highway. There are a few stops along the way for long distance travellers and we find one called Limestone stopover. There are over 20 rigs parked around ‘the red dust bowl’ of a camping spot.

Second Day on the road towards West Australia

The second day on this part of our adventure, starts with long straight stretches of open highway, the speed limit in the Northern Territory is 130kph, but the configuration of our rig means we have to keep around 100kph; kind of boring at times with concentration required to make sure you hear the beeps of the speedo indicating “Over the 100kph limit”. The countryside changes along the way and we feel we are entering a new zone of foliage. The Victoria River is coming up and we take a longish stop to enjoy the change of atmosphere with the river winding its way to the ocean somewhere.

Victoria River and beyond

It seemed that the Victoria River region and campsite would be a good one to take time out, for 2 or 3 days; but we can’t, as we have made bookings in Kununurra for a river cruise. We found an appropriate spot at Saddle Creek Rest Area. The starlink came out so Lyn had a good internet connection to do her work. How good is that? Working at a very remote location and doing a booking for a client to visit Europe in six months time; very much a mobile travel agent – and a Grey Nomad at that.

On into Kununurra

Meals can be an interruption to Lyns lifestyle; adjusting involved itineraries from remote locations, taking pics, enjoying the driving or the scenery as it goes by. Lyn would be the first to say that I never put pressure with the topic “when are we getting a meal?” I consider myself to just be and ’emergency cook’. Lyn does very well despite the high temperatures when the gas cooker is on the go, in 35 degree heat.

The day we arrived into Kununurra was Lyns birthday, so after set up, it was down to the local shop “Pink Rocks” shop to choose a gift. I hope you think it’s cute too. How different, a boab tree pendant!

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Ord River Cruise

The following day it was my birthday, so Lyn organised a six -hour cruise on the Ord River. It turned into a ‘birthday I shall not forget’. We had just boarded the little boat (with two V-8 out board motors) and I stood up and side stepped into the aisle, to take a picture. The worst thing was I took a step backwards into ’empty’ space and down I went. I ended up with a bruise in my left butt cheek and a few broken ribs on the right side. Breathing is always difficult with broken ribs so “careful, careful” is the way to go. That put a ‘dent’ in the day but thankfully another older guy got down and helped me up while Lyn called “what are you doing down there?”.

The Ord River is the water that comes over the spillway of Lake Argyle, one big lake indeed. We flew over it a couple of days later and on to the bungle bungles. It is very impressive.

There was a wealth of wildlife that live along the river banks and in the trees. We notice the ‘freshie crocodiles’ which are a little less aggressive than their relatives, the ‘salty’. We stopped and watched a’kite’ bird sitting on its nest in the high branches, and a ‘darter’ looking into the sky to impress others she was a branch in a tree while warming her eggs. We also stopped to view a colony of fruit bats and learn that a lot of their natural work is cross pollination of plants to breed more of the same kind.

Over 300 of the 760 species listed in the Australian Atlas of Birds can be found in the Kimberley, which includes birds of prey. The Lake Kununurra wetlands and Ord River are a haven for birds and easy to explore. (JJJ Tours)

Kununurra is an interesting town. It was built because of the work done on Lake Argyle to set up a large agricultural region; there is high rainfall during the wet season which may as well benefit the agricultural industry in Australia. They have tried cotton at first but the sprays caused a lot of problems. Interesting, we met up with a couple in Queensland who were agronomists and they have ‘invented’ a way to enable the cotton industry to flourish using a system using treated seed to eliminate pests and unwanted disease in the cotton harvest.

Next week, we will be travelling towards Broome.

11. Great Life lapping Australia 2024

Darwin out and about

George Brown Darwin Botanical Gardens

Tropical flowers are always a draw card to garden lovers. The botanical gardens in Darwin certainly have some beautiful blooms this last week. Amazingly, even the photos app on my phone knows the names of the peculiar ones – what a benefit. There’s a few different areas to enjoy with the tropical orchids not flowering en masse at present. Since we visited last year, an interesting sculpture has been created with a crocodile featured devouring a few unfortunate fish; nature owns its own way of survival.

Amherstia
Gardenia carinata

Museum and Art Gallery of NT

Not being a museum chaser, I was impressed with the layout and displays in the Art Gallery. Lots of extensive illustrations of how things have happened in the Northern Territory over the decades past. The section on the Cyclone Tracey disaster that hit Darwin on Christmas Day in 1974, was well displayed and explained. Darwin certainly got hit quickly and at phi-nominal force and speed. (Well worth a visit if you haven’t been to Darwin.)

Cullen Bay

This little bay appears to be the rich people’s Mecca in Darwin. Classy yachts and water edge homes are well cared for. We arrived in time to see the one and only lock in the NT helping a yacht into the upper level marina.

There is a lock keeping in bay, all the posh yachts at a marina.

Views around East Point

Mindil Beach Sunset Market

I must admit to visiting the market three times this trip to Darwin. The last visit, I was hoping to pick up a very colourful shirt for a friend turning 80 soon. The second visit to the market seemed to have better shirts – this time most were not so good, so no present going his way – for now. I had a foot and leg massage and Lyn had a neck, arms and back massage. Dinner was the “food in your hand as you walk” with the meal ending with cream and churros.

Darwin Military Museum

This war museum has managed to keep its grandest gun in good but not working order. It still stands in the same location it fired bombs to the Japanese airforce, as they attacked in 1942. Other weapons and memorabilia are well displayed too. I spent a long time reading the accounts of the Jews at the time of Hitlers nasty form of power. I left a penned comment “may there never be another leader again of any country, to be so greedy and inhumane”.

A few signs around the war museums for your information.

9. Great Life lapping Australia 2024

Yellow Water Cruise – Kakadu

To take this cruise, you need to buy tickets and check in at Cooinda Lodge where you are taken to the mooring site for your departure to an ever changing landscape of the Yellow Water billabong. If you’re in Kakadu National Park, it is a “must-do” evening cruise finishing off with another brilliant Northern Territory sunset. Yes, you can do a sunrise or “during the day” cruise, but the end of the day is the most popular one that you will enjoy. What are the guides looking for? Well, crocodiles would be the guides first “look for” on his list during our cruise; from the departure point, we headed straight across the billabong to a lazing crocodile taking in the afternoon sun; big and handsome, some would say.

The birdlife is exceptional with many whistling ducks and egrets wandering around the banks of the billabong, scattering as we make our way closer to their breeding grounds. One standout bird in this area is the Jabiru; skinny pinkish legs with long toes, he roams the “kingdom”, as if it were his.

The cruise wanders around the billabong and leaves the area where the brilliant sunset is best seen until last point of “take a look at this”; what brilliance the sky presents each and every evening in the Northern Territory!

Cahill Crossing – Kakadu

We had a previous notification that Cahill Crossing isn’t just for cars and trucks to cross the East Alligator River; salt water alligators also use the crossing to get upstream to catch fish for dinner lunch and tomorrows breakfast. The tide comes up stream and floods over the low concrete bridge enabling access for the alligators. This has become a popular tourist destination for tourists to view crocodiles in the wild as you can see from some of the videos. I was particularly taken in with the guy “surfing” up stream on the “tidal wave”. We stayed at a camp nearby for two nights which enabled us to see two episodes of the naturally occurring event. Add it to your bucket list; all included in the Kakadu NP pass.

Hey! Surfer Joe!

Corroboree Billabong Mary River National Park

Further towards Darwin and on the west side of the Kakadu National Park is the Mary River. This area is well known as a “wetlands” National Park with plenty of billabong birds and wildlife. It too has a large number of crocodiles to view their lifestyle and “activity” during the daylight. We took the evening 5pm – 6:30pm cruise, said to be the better cruise because it too includes vantage points for great sunset photos. There is also a sunrise cruise.

Yes, the first stop was to view a crocodile on the billabong bank waiting for something to consume. And the whistling ducks were close by. A prominent bird in this region is the Jabiru also. A nest high up in the trees revealed a Jabiru caring for its eggs, or young. There were many of these “kingly looking” creatures which make a fabulous display as they leap and fly into the sky for finding another searching pad for fresh fish and other water creatures. The video of three pelicans in synchronized movement was a surprise.

Our guide spotted a water buffalo in the distance bathing in the sludgy waters. On our appearance, the bull buffalo thought it a good spectacle to “get out of the bath” and head for greener pastures. Thanks Billy!

Darwin Black Night Air Display

For our time in Darwin, we have decided to take a rest from each other and do “our own thing”. Lyn and I have chosen a camp north of Darwin near the shore where we get a continual light breeze to keep the temperature at a bearable level.

However, on Thursday evenings the Mindil Market is a market all visitors to Darwin have to visit. So find our way to the market during the daylight was ok, but our return back would take a lot longer. We knew the crowd would be enormous as the 2024 RAAF Pitch Black exercise was to present a 90 minute flyover exercise over the Mindil Beach. This was made up of over 4,400 military personnel and over 140 aircraft from 20 participating nations. The exercise involves air, sea, and land contingents and is held each two years. Another for your bucket list in 2026. Really really good.

The beach was wall to wall people viewing military aircraft and “show-off” movements just close to the beach. The event was held up twice while people tried swimming and another sent up his drone. A definite no no at an event like this. Silly duffas.

8. Great Life lapping Australia 2024

Mataranka – Bitter Springs

The town of Mataranka Springs is rather small and only has the basics in shopping and commercial activity. The “supermarket” only has bread available a few days a week. Eggs for a meal are a rare event. We stayed at Bitter Springs, just 3 or 4 km away.

You do not have to make a site booking here; it’s first arrival gets the next available site. So around 8:30am, campers start arriving at the reception to commence living a Bitter Springs lifestyle. Fortunately, we were able to site side-by-side, three across. The springs are an easy 1km stroll away. They are warm and you hop in the river and float down on a “floatie” to a “get out” point and take a short walk back to the starting point for another lap or two.

Unfortunately, I must have had some bad food or nasty water and was sidelined for two days with nothing going down and everything coming up. Even the charcoal tablets were not wanted. All good now but with a looser belt.

Katherine

Katherine is a very busy town, with the gorge close by to the east, and the highways heading north to Darwin and Kakadu, south to Adelaide and Queensland and west to the Kimberlys and Perth. The supermarket is full on flat out as it is the only one to feed the thousands of tourists that drive through each day in the busy season. Fuel stations are used by all tourists to top up the fuel, for you never know when the next road house will be supplying fuel.

Some friends we met again last year, were on a mission to catch us and spend a day with us before they headed out west to Broome. Their departure from Wollongong was a month after we moved on from the Gold Coast. They caught up just as we were departing Mataranka for Katherine.

Katherine Gorge Cruise

The gorge cruise is always a bright spot to visit on a clear blue sky day, and we did just that. It is a well known “bucket list” item in the Northern Territory and offers a number of relaxing cruises at various times of the day. The rock walls offer varying colors that at different times of the day. We chose the 10:00 am cruise.

The commentary used phrases like “5.3 billion years“. It’s hard to imagine how anyone could accurately say how old a rock is or when major things happened to the region’s geography. Nothing has been written down; in fact there were no pencils and books in those days.

Look closely at Mr Crocodile

Kakadu National Park

We have entered Kakadu from the south where the roads are much, much better than the roads in many country states to the south. We found a bush camp and stayed the night with millions of stars looking down on us, proving a spectacle one will always remember. In a short period of time, you can count 15-20 satellites orbiting the earth.

Next post, we’ll have completed the Yellow River cruise and then into Darwin.

7. Great Life lapping Australia 2024

Outback night skies never disappoint.

Camooweal Billabong

I have tried to find detail of the regular residents of the Billabong but all I got was a “quack quack”. In other words, nothing. Not even a signboard to say what types or brands of water birds come here. Do any migrate to here or just pass through on to some other breeding region? Can’t tell you. Wikipedia didn’t enlighten my mind either.

So to do better than the “signboards” just come and experience the wonder of the activities of the birdlife in this out of the way billabong in outback western Queensland.

There is strong talk amongst the human grey nomads that this billabong is being closed. The decision to close the sites for camping is to protect cultural heritage and was made following discussions held between Mount Isa City Council and local landowners.

However, it is still open to short stay Grey Nomads. This lagoon is really owned by the many varieties of birds that inhabit the billabong and make it a busy natural place to live. They make the culture of Camooweal Billabong real and full of life. They are an exhibition of how we too should get along in the places we call home. Thank you birds and nature.

I said earlier that night skies in the outback never disappoint. I wrote that before I got out of bed for today’s sunrise. I guess we have to “endure” lots more of these stunning expanses of morning and evening colour, during our time in the outback.

The Northern Territory

Barkly and Frewena Rest area

The last we saw of Queensland is Police stopping traffic to do searches of the vehicles. Don’t know why, but they were very active around the vehicles they had stopped.

For those Hawkes supporters- Barkly Homestead.
No sign of any customers at three ways NT.
A sleep over takes on a new meaning when you’re driving hundreds of kilometers in a day.

Daly Waters is a well known town located around the goings on of an old country pub. Yes, everything is old and mostly broken, left to rust and never to be moved; aircraft, buses, trucks, cars windmills, and anything else that doesn’t need to be used again. The owner runs around on his quad bike making sure all is happening to his plan. He is a big guy and on the back of his quad bike, he has installed a sign “wide load”. He owns 3 or 4 other camps/pubs of similar value and “mission” in the Northern Territory. The meals provided are high quality. He has entertainment each afternoon and evening. The staff are the most helpful and courteous group of young people you could want to employ. They love what they do and so does the owner. If you are in the area, plan a two day stay to enable you to take in the “different” way people live in the NT. We stayed just a few hours including lunch, but I wish we could have stayed longer for that “Daly” experience. The restaurant and shop is very different to other roadhouses.

A Jeff and Sheri Easter song for pub afternoon entertainment.

Just a few hundred kilometers north from Daly Waters is Mataranka. We have set up camp there for the weekend. More next post.

Darwin 2023 – for 7 weeks then home.

For many years I have thought of Darwin as a place “in the far flung outposts of the British Empire”; and indeed it is a long drive to experience the northern part of Australia’s civilisation. But I found a very well organised city with good roads and many new buildings and shopping centres. Cyclone Tracey did the north a favour in many respects. Sad to hear the stories of the “wind that blew the town away”.

The other major catastrophe for Darwin was the Japanese bombings during the 2nd world war. The experience of the event is depicted in movie form and virtual reality of the attack on the harbour. This is at the waterfront of the harbour and is included with the Flying Doctor museum and display.

Kaboom
James and Di

We stayed out of town for 7 weeks. The little Suzuki came in handy for when we wanted to see the area around Darwin and to do shopping etc. A good buy indeed. Hitching it on the back of the motorhome eventually became a breeze.

Sited in the bush.

Darwin was sunny every day; 32 degrees was mostly comfortable. No clouds for 11 weeks straight. We saw a couple of the famous Darwin sunsets: one at Mindil Market and the other at Cullen Bay.

It’s hard to find accepted take off points for the drone in the territory and I don’t want to offend the powers that control who can or who can’t. I only used the drone twice in 7 weeks.

The swimming holes at Berry Springs are a refreshing spot to visit on a hot humid day. We took a couple of visits there; one with Diane and James. The springs at Litchfield National Park were also fine. I had a bit of a panic attack (the accident I had does that at the wrong time) there on our first visit and wasn’t able to join Lyn in the water.

Wangi Falls

There are some good restaurants in Darwin. Our favourite one became “The cool spot” in Fannie Bay. They make the best rocky road dessert you could imagine. Here’s the three that we each downed while in the town; on different days, of course. The one in the round cup was at a market one night. They poured a liquefied ice cream mix onto a freezing cold stove top and literally scraped it off into ice cream rolls. Delicious too, of course.

Who can better this Rocky Road dessert?

By staying at a campground for 2 months, you can’t help but get to know other campers who have ventured to Darwin to get away from winter too. Almost the whole guest list turned up for what followed the daily 4pm happy hour, a game of darts. Two teams of 15 to 30 members each brought “soul” to what could be a dull two months. The fortnightly “dress up to a theme share dinner” brought a few laughs too. A number of us are still in contact to be updated with the darts score.

Lyn in “neon” lights
Fritz in camouflage

Our turn to head south came too quickly as the warm sunny weather became the normal, more enjoyable lifestyle than being in winter clothing, even inside, that awaited us on our return. We would have stayed longer if our trip to Croatia wasn’t just four weeks away.

We spent a day cleaning the inside of the motor home before heading for the Stuart Highway that was to take us south via Alice Springs, and Port Augusta. We decided to take a different route to home via Mildura and then south to the Yarra Valley via Bendigo and Seymour.

There are many places on the Stuart Highway where travellers can “free camp”. We took the opportunity twice before arriving at Alice Springs. Just north of Alice are the Devils Marbles. We arrived to a full camping area so we moved on 80 Km further along the highway.

The Devils marbles

In Alice Springs, we met up with Glenn and Kyung who purchased their Paradise Motorhome 6 months after us but we have met up a few times in Melbourne. They left Melbourne after eventually selling their business and getting on the road to do a lap; they are in the 16th month of exploring and came up to Alice Springs following some time on the Eyre Peninsula, South Australia. We camped in a campground out of Alice Springs where it is safer for tourists. We managed to time our visit with the arrival of the northbound Ghan on a Thursday.

Here’s comes the Ghan with the wrong engines today.
Glenn and Kyung
Rock Wallabies were active around our site near Alice Springs

There are a few really well cared for tourist spots near The Alice; Simpsons Gap and Standley Chasm. Take a look.

Simpsons Gap
Standley Chasm

The highway south of Alice Springs also has some free camps and we traveled with Glenn and Kyung stopping at the SA/NT border, train spotters camp, and Lake Hart near Woomera. There were 5 trains that went past our camping spot at Lake Hart and none at Train Spotters.

SA/NT border free camp
The soccer was on.
At Train Spotters
Near Coober Pedy

Port August became the town of farewell as we said good bye to Glenn and Kyung, and headed to Berri for the night beside the Murray River. As we were walking around the free camping area deciding where to set up for the night, a lady in a campervan drove over to us and asked if she could stay close to us for the night as security for her. This was the first time she had free camped since her husband had passed twelve months ago; she even called it her “virgin” trip. Of course we were happy to help and had a nice happy hour together going over places we both had been to. That’s the way grey nomads live most of the time – helping others who lack the experience.

Free camp at Martins Bend Reserve

When you get close to home after a long journey, you start to “hot foot” and get home sooner. After leaving the Murray, we took a short break in Mildura and thence to Wedderburn. This was to be the last night of this trip to Darwin for 2023. We found a free camp just near to the town and settled down to watch tv. The morning would see us arrive home soon after mid day to reorganize the house after the last of the renovations had been completed the week after our departure 15 weeks earlier.

Crossing the Murray River near Mildura.
The last free camping spot at Wedderburn
Oh! There’s home.

Darwin 2023 – NT Border to Darwin

It is just a short jaunt down the Barkly Highway to the place where most people stop to take that sort after photo “I crossed into the Northern Territory”. We became part of that group too. There was no line of demarcation; just a simple sign with the NT logo and the words “Welcome to the Northern Territory”. The stickers that previous photo chasers have also included in their photos, are a bonus.

As we are away from the bouncy Queensland roads now, we can motor along without all the crockery and saucepans doing a dance while we travel. Yes, more open space with no trees above grass height still. I couldn’t work out how the demarkation between the two states were made decades ago; no sign of a river or border police until we further down the highway a bit when up popped a couple of border police at a roadhouse; we kept low because we haven’t obtained entry visas to the Northern Territory for our holiday.

At the Barkly Homestead, we topped up with fuel to get us to three-ways where highways meet heading north, south and east. This homestead has had a bad run this last summer when a fire gutted it and the floods swamped it. The rebuilding job is looking good with the best facilities and souvenirs we’ve seen this trip. Worth a visit when you get around to it.

We came across a rest stop that looked like it had grass around. After venturing in towards a large water mass, we found a spot to free camp for the night. Frewena Rest area proved to be satisfactory and, unbeknown to us, the guy next to us is an ex Army signals specialist and had a Starlink attached to his caravan. He knew “everything” about it and we’ve been convinced to purchase the hardware. Apparently, a new aerial is now being shipped designed to sit on top of caravans and motorhomes. Once fitted, Lyn should have almost perfect internet to do her travel agency work anywhere we are, even while moving. Back to the location; the drone had a workout again.

At three ways, we topped up with the dearest fuel so far on this trip. And, and we had reception for a half hour to receive emails and travel requests to be sorted at the next roadhouse that has internet reception. The pub in the roadhouse at Elliott had a wide range of hats “nailed” to the ceiling as a sound acoustics shield (perhaps). It was set up ready for the next band to rattle the walls. Rick Ferret, now there’s a great place for a gig on the road.

The experience of staying at Banka Banka Tourist Camp is worth it, just to see how these places work. Tourists only drop in for a night’s stay and then off in the morning heading either north to Darwin or south towards Tennant Creek. We met up with a couple we had met at our nieces wedding about 25 years ago. (We must look pretty young – they recognised us.) Once the caravans have vacated their sites, the owners turn on the water sprinklers to try and get the grass soft and “like home” before the next occupants arrive within a few hours. We had a hold up in the morning trying to get the Suzuki transmission set properly for free wheeling behind the motor home. Eventually set off north again.

The next night, we thought of staying at a WW2 airstrip free camp. As we turned into a red dusty driveway, we saw a heavy looking gate ahead, and decided to walk to the gate to check it out. “No, we won’t stay there.” Our decision made, but we had to reverse out the motor home with car in tow. When you reverse, the wheels of the Suzuki turn suddenly and you have to drive forward to correct the steering and then try reversing again. (Yes, we thought of the idea of having Lyn hop in the Suzuki and steer – someone had to guide me back onto the highway). Finally, we were on our way again with the sun starting to set. We made it to another free highway spot at Warlock Rest area some 40km south of Mataranka. The noise of road trains all through the night interrupted our sleep regularly.

On just another 70 km once we woke, to Bitter Springs. Originally, the plan was for two nights but our stay has been extended to four nights. Close by the caravan park are some hot springs which no one seems to know where they start and to where the water ends up. However, tourists passing through the town often use the springs for a “freshen up” mid-journey. Things can get busy with this popular spot.

Our stay was a great rest and rejuvenating time. Amazingly, after the first swim in the springs, my balance problem has been helped tremendously. The walking poles still come out at night but I feel more confident in the daytime without them. We made the one kilometre trek 8 times with three of them around 8am in the morning. You MUST stay if ever you travel through the area.

As we were setting up on our arrival, a couple were walking past our site. The woman called out “Lyn Mitchell”. After a “who’s this” look from Lyn, she realised it was Carolyn from her boarding school days – another proof moment that we haven’t aged, too much. Together with husband Peter, they were doing the lap sort of, well across to Perth, up to Darwin and down the center and home to the Lake Macquarie region. They left the day after as the 1st Sate of Origin game, had to be seen on the big screen at the campground before their departure.

Anyone else know this escaped student from Avondale?

Not long after Carolyn and Peter departed, Sue and John arrived. We hadn’t seen them for 30 years since they were in Warburton. You just can’t keep anything silent in the NT outback and we still look trim, taut and terrific.

Our site at Bitter Springs is a stopover point for a chat with those heading to the amenities block.
Another good office to be in.

It’s not a long way on to Katherine; just an easy hour and a bit. The civilisation turned us off intersection lights and “watch out for other drivers coming from the left and right” rules. It seemed the woollies supermarket knows how to charge for added transportation costs with commodity prices reaching a maximum. The biggest shop we’ve had for a long time.

To further test the new lithium battery, we chose to be safe at a GDay caravan park but not use their power or water. The battery went down to 62% and has come back to 94% while heading north to Darwin.

The tourist information office in Katherine convinced us to do a 2 hour cruise in the Katherine Gorge at 9:00am in the morning. We must have some “drawing power” from the heavens as blue skies and sunshine turned up for the length of the journey. The guide and pilot of the flat bottomed boat, did a great job, without any notes, quoting millions of years at every moment he thought we needed convincing of the span of time. It seemed he was around the place back then. The rock painters had a great time too, mixing clay and stone and excretions from leaves to create interesting wall story paintings of yesteryear.

The highway north from Katherine was showing us more what civilization provides in the Territory; with small portions having divided carriage ways. We have arrived at our site which we will use as a base to visit touristy regions and souvenir shops with a strong local flavour during the next month or two. Stay tuned for more “boring” blogs from me. Oh yes, there have been a few comments that basically say that the last blog was a “great read”. I’m not sure who the translator was but thanks anyway.

Darwin – 2023 – To the NT Border.

Since our September 2022 return to base in the Yarra Valley of Victoria, a lot of maintenance and renovations of our home have kept us busy. We decided to update the inside of the family home of 33 years. Every room has a new coat of paint to last another 30 years. Before then, “the box” will have arrived and taken us to our “final resting place”.

The kitchen and bathrooms have been stripped back to empty space, and replaced with all new modern fittings and cabinetry. It’s like a new home. Relearning where things are and where to find them has been an education.

When we left for this trip at the end of April, furniture and clothes were left stacked in piles in their wrong rooms to allow Gary Sprinkler room to complete the wall paint. Let me tell you who Gary “Sprinkler” is. When we re-turfed the lawn in 2021, Gary’s wife offered her husband to install an automatic irrigation system to allow us to water the garden and lawns automatically if it had not rained. We had trouble remembering his name so called him Gary Sprinkler. His name comes up on our phone as “Gary Sprinkler calling”.

Our departure for 2023 came along the day after we originally planned and that was fine; it just meant that we would miss out on a couple of nights stay at Crescent Head near Kempsey NSW. After the winding road towards Benalla, the Hume is a comfort to travel along. At Jugiong is a donation camp just off the highway. We arrived in time to have soup with Chris and Marilyn who had been camped there for a few weeks – I think.

It was at Jugion that we realized that it was time to upgrade to lithium batteries. Our gel batteries were purchased last year and we thought they had failed us. We had to start the motor home motor to put some charge in the house batteries to bring the Slideout in before we could travel further. So an appointment was made with trusty James to have that done two weeks later on the Gold Coast.

Most years, we attend a Grey Nomads Convention at Stuart’s Point. This lasts ten nights and has about 450 attendees; many of them are friends from way back and from various work places over the years. Always a good time bringing back memories. Lyn had been asked to speak at one meeting about her favourite destinations around the world.

After Stuart’s Point, we headed through Coffs Harbour and to Grafton where our daughter lives. They have recently purchased a hybrid caravan and we were able to spend a weekend at a hidden camp called Secret Lake Retreat. All sites are unpowered so our batteries were really “tested”. We had to use the generator during part of the nights to keep the fridge doing it’s job with no food spoiled.

On up towards the Gold Coast where we stayed at Kirra Beach. For Mother’s Day dinner, we enjoyed a Thai meal near the beach. Meeting up with old friends is always good and a couple from Broadbeach managed to be allowed out on parole. Sorry Max and Jenelle. A little after they left for home, it rained, and rained, and rained. In 12 hours, we had 120mm. Packing up to travel further north while it’s raining is no joy at all.

First stop was to get the replacement lithium battery. It was found that the real problem was that the DC2DC charger had ‘retired’ without an approved request. The charger converts solar power into 12v to store appropriately in the battery. Now we are able to “free camp” without running out of power during the night.

From the Gold Coast, we made our way up towards and past Toowoomba and through Dalby to Chinchilla. The country camping ground was a good clean, no rush, camp ground, to do some washing and get to know a few fellow travelers.

On our way to Morven, we stopped at the Bakearoma at Roma. Their beesting is even better than the ones from Beechworth Bakery on a good day; they had drizzled toffee over the top – mmmmm. Marven accommodation was at a donation park at the sports ground; the lithium batteries doing well overnight; a sign of good things for the future.

If you want a bouncy ride, take the road north to Longreach. You’ll have the best milk shake if you had milk for breakfast. The scenery? Barren with hardly any above grass vegetation. The little towns along the way came up each 80km with Tambo the cutest. Barcaldine; fuel up and turn left to Longreach for another 100km.

Longreach caravan park is very large with extensive development of even more sites. It was quite noticeable that campers only stay here three nights to enable visits to both the Qantas Museum and the Stockman’s Hall of fame. We have rarely flown first class but we did here. The first class tickets gave us a tour of 3 early aircraft Qantas used as well as a tour through the 747-200 City of Bunbury. Our first class choice enabled us to a more detailed tour of the 747 with an opportunity to sit in the pilots seat as well as a walk out onto the wing; safety harnesses and closed footwear were a necessity.

If there’s one criticism of the stockman’s hall of fame, it would be, the show needs to become a show, that incorporates a story involving more people and intrigue; one stockman on few different horses is a bit lacking. All is good in the static museum with a “tour in your own time” headset with voice and ditties along the way.

We would return to what seemed a busy and progressive business center. Longreach is a “must stay for a few nights” kind of town.

The distances are vast out here. You pass many entrances to farms but strain to see the farm buildings in the distance; many unable to be seen. Can you imagine the request, “can you go out and get the mail”, and the kid takes a 2 hour trip to the mail box on the highway.

The rest stop turned out to be a great location to put the drone up for a scenic flight. Wow! The color was so much “Australian outback tonings”, I had trouble in my mind to switch to “breakfast is ready” mode. I’m happy that the drone gives such a different approach to landscape movies and photos.

Through Winton, the road is straight for kilometers with little towns popping up at around each 80 to 120 kilometers. We came to a country pub called The Blue Heeler at Kynuna and decided to enjoy a lemon squash while watching the road trains roar past. Behind the pub were 20 or so sites for travelers at $15 a night. We stayed the night and managed to get going by 8:30 for a bit more driving before having breakfast at a rest stop – I said rest stop, not restaurant!

Further up the highway, and the vastness of this typical outback vista, we came across another outback pub. We were too early for opening time but it brought back the vivid memories of that iconic Australian movie “Crocodile Dundee”; the old car from the movie sits outside waiting for photographers to enjoy with the pub in the background. Just a tiny town with a police station that had 7 satellite dishes on the roof – I kid you not.

Our destination for today was Mt Isa. After filling the fuel tank with more diesel at Cloncurry, and driving towards Mt Isa, we had hoped we could tour the now closed uranium mine made famous when the Australian Government was prepared to sell the uranium to overseas energy companies but refused to build clean energy power stations in its “own backyard”. What a saving that would be now in non-renewable materials being used rather than solar panels and wind turbines!

We had an offer to stay at a property in Mt Isa for the weekend but when we drove past, there wasn’t enough room to fit our vehicles, so we drove further west to Camooweal, just 12 km from the Northern Territory border, to a billabong that proved very popular with like-minded Grey Nomads.