04. South Pacific Cruise

Leaving Alotau PNG

Kiriwina

Kiriwina Island, Papua New Guinea

Located in Papua New Guinea’s Milne Bay Province, Kiriwina is the largest of the Trobriand Islands and home to the majority of their 12,000-strong indigenous population. The picturesque island is steeped in history and is famous to many as a site of U.S. occupation during World War II. In fact, various relics of the war, including the remains of an American plane, can still be seen on this the island. But Kiriwina is home to far more than history. Here, you’ll find an idyllic traditional lifestyle, incredibly friendly locals and a fascinating social structure that’s based on matrilineal clans, with unique marriage and courtship rituals. Many aspects of life revolve around the cultivation and exchange of yams.There’s also mesmerizing scenery, from crystal-clear waters to jungle-covered cliffs. Hire a dugout canoe, hike to the burial caves, peruse exquisite carvings and explore the coral-filled offshore islands. Be sure to stop and watch a game of Trobriand cricket, an innovative spin on the game. Whatever you choose to do, it’s bound to be an eye-opening experience.

Today was going to be a wet and windy day and hoping into a tender boat to get to the island wasn’t in our thoughts. A few tender loads of passenger managed to make to the island before a fierce wind squall hit us. The captain closed down the passenger transfers and eventually ordered all passengers back to the ship. Some passengers were held in the tenders for over 90 minutes until the squall subsided to a safe level to transfer back to Noordam.

From Kiriwina islands it takes a sea day to get to Honiara port in the “Hapi Isles”; Solomon Islands. The entertainment for the evening was a Spanish Guitarist from Melbourne. The rocking and rolling of the ocean didn’t affect our smooth sailing in the Solomon Sea.

Eventually, Honiara came into sight and my heart skipped a little as a reason for this cruise is to relive our days of enjoying life here in the 80s. We have managed to “find” friends on facebook and arrange to meet during the day. As we came off the ship, the traditional bamboo band was playing the sounds of the “hapi isles”.

Just nearby, Julie and her husband Kevin had been waiting to show us around our old “hometown”. We worked here for 4 and a half years 1985 to 1989, with two years at Atoifi Hospital on Malaita Island. Julie had been the head in the School of nursing at Atoifi Hosoital and is now teaching nursing in Honiara. Her sister, Encie, worked as a secretary in an office I also worked, and has recently retired from being principal of a 600 student school.

Bradley came from the western Solomons by boat to Honiara just to meetup. He had been the manager of a carvings industry at Betikama High School which was my privilege to be the CFO while also the CFO at Atoifi Hospital.

What reunion chatter the day brought as we drove around the pot holed town of Honiara. The school at Betikama High School was on vacation

While living in Honiara, Lyn worked at Guadalcanal Travel agency so we dropped by for a visit. All past employees have moved on to other ventures.

As we left Honiara, our hearts knew that they had fond memories of the beautiful people that we had both worked with and had fun together. Thank you Julie, Encie and Bradley for being such a fun ingredient to our day of nostalgia. Keep safe guys.

Our Honiara day didn’t end at the wharf, it ended when the pilot boat headed back to the town. The pilot is Encie’s son.

We have another sea day to travel to our next port Luganville, Vanuatu.

Author: Colin Spain

The Official Blogger for Grey Nomads Travel and Cruise and GR8L1F YouTube: @colinspain1078

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